DESIGNER BREEDS vs. “MUTTS”

 In the past years, the popularity of “Designer Breeds” have exploded. Talking to many people the phrase is commonly “ we used to call them mutts”. If we consider that the breeds that are known NOW as purebreds, were a mix or hybrid many years ago, some not so long ago.

 As with most other “breeds”, man has put his hands in to alter nature, creating new breeds to resolve some issues of concern. Many breeds have developed “breed problems” as man continued to “perfect” his vision of a dog. For instance, let’s quickly view the pug. Such a bright and loving little breed!! However, the short snout creates a rough breathing issue, inability to cool with no way to pass warm air through zero length muzzle, not allowing the air to cool, Pugs snort and snore, have large bugged out eyes which, not uncommonly, can pop out due to trauma. Pekingese have a dwarfed bone structure as well as the eye and nose issues of the pug. Now , and for quite a few years, breeds such as these, have been bred with other breeds to minimize these issues. We often see Puggles( Pug/Beagle), which elongates the nose and decreases the bulging eyes. Puggles have been an extremely popular Designer breeds due to their happy demeanor and adorable appearance.

Puggle

Poodles are bred with many breeds, to attempt to create more non-shedding breeds. Peke-a-poos frequently non-shedding and the nose most often, in longer, avoiding the breathing issues. Cock-a-poos are another hybrid breed that has been in existence for decades. Again, searching for the perfect puppy, bringing a mix of Cocker Spaniel and Poodle

TeddyBear(shih tzu/Bichon Frise) have become a very desired puppy as both breeds are sweet and non shedding. This mix also brings out the nose to make it an easier breather.

Having just reviewing some of the objectives of hybrid or designer breeds, in comparison, a “mutt” is a dog of unknown parentage , or mixed just for fun with no true interest of the future outcome. The old “heinz 57”breeds, as they were known in the past, frequently a person’s female breeding with a unknown male, of an unknown breed. Very possibly there are numerous breed genetics involved (hence, the heinz 57). Much of the difference between a mutt versus a designer breed is a positive purpose for the genetics of the puppies created.

Also, the knowledge of genetics, the the realization that breeding is NOT like mixing paint. I have been frequently asked, “if I breed my white dog with this black dog, what color will the puppies be?” Genetics are not mixing paints, Dominant genes, recessive genes, this is much more complicated than red and yellow makes orange. This is the other difference in true designer puppy breeders, above that of mistaken breeding. Breeding designer puppies, or even purebred puppies should, should always be purposeful. If one is not breeding with noble intentions, they should have their dogs neutered.

One of the most notable designer breeds are the “Doodles”, labradoodle and goldendoodle. Labs and Golden Retrievers have been used as service dogs since Helen Keller instilled the importance of service dogs. Dogs are used now, not only for the blind, but hearing, seizure dogs, PTSD aide,wheelchair bound people, and MANY more. By mixing a Lab with a standard Poodle can create a service dog that may be non-shedding and allergy friendly! Just think how that could open the world to those who could not have a dog to help them through the lack of ability in areas of their lives. The joy must have been  ecstatic to receive the word that a whole new world had opened for these people who had allergies, and shedding maintenance difficulties. Also, keeping in mind that Poodles, a very intelligent breed, are in three sizes, toy, miniature, and standard.

Now there are multiple sizes of the “Doodle” group.This facilitates people living in situations that might restrict the size of their pet and helper.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel/Bichon Cavachon

Chihuahua/Yorkie

There are breeds that originated thousands of years ago, and some AKC registered breeds that were accepted just this past years. There are breeds that have been in existence for centuries or more that  are not  acknowledged by the more well known registries such as the AKC.

How much different is there in creating or designing newer breeds, than the breeds we easily recognize, that were man-developed a century or more ago.

 Man has always worked on creating species to fit the circumstances in which he lives. Dogs were and always will be manipulated to fit into the lifestyles of humans. As with everything, some changes are welcome and benefit the animal and the public, others are not. However, needs precede   design, and not all designs are viable, but many are important to our wellbeing. Designer dog breeding with intent of improving the breeds is an honorable pursuit, but randomly allowing dogs to breed with disregard, with no forethought or plan, is breeding a MUTT.

Story by Carol Pentz
over 35 years of animal experience
Breeder of HeartAndSol American Bulldogs

Crate or kennel training frequently gets a lot of criticism from “ animal lovers”. Our mindset must adjust to the fact that dogs are den animals, and of course, they are dogs! If a dog feels insecure he wants to hide in a closet, under a table or chair. Dogs are predisposed to finding enclosures comforting. There are many reasons for crate training your puppy, which we will approach individually.

When first bringing a puppy home, a crate should have been purchased. It should be only large enough for the pup to lay, stand, and turn around. Many crates come with a divider that is moveable and removable as training progresses.

The puppy should be introduced to the kennel by putting the pup inside with a hard, waterproof toy. Close the door and walk away. Return when the pup is quiet and open the door. A treat may be given at that time. Always remember, treats are REWARDS for good behavior, not just for fun. It will ruin the importance of reward if he gets treats no matter how he behaves. The puppy will learn quickly that in the kennel, he will not pee or poop or he will make a mess of himself. When you take the pup out of the kennel, immediately take him to his potty station, again rewarding after a successful relieving of waste matter. Its important to be consistent when crate training your puppy

Once there are no mistakes in the kennel, no pee or poo, the pup may then be moved to a larger kennel or the kennel divider may be moved to increase his living area. During this initial training, there should be NOTHING in the bottom of the crate except non-absorbent toys. The purpose of this is to avoid the pup soiling a towel or other item that can soak up any liquid or waste, which can then be pushed away so as the pup remain dry and clean. In most cases a few mistakes and having to deal with his own waste, instills the need of retaining potty actions. You, as the master, must let the puppy out to the potty station every few hours at the onset, and as control of the bladder is strengthening. Once the pup has gone potty, followed by your phrases of approval and a treat, playtime can begin!

Repeatedly, I use the phrase “potty Station”. This place can vary according to your life’s situation. In most cases it is outdoors. The same area should be used so the scent of the urine and feces will promote and reassure the pup that this IS the appropriate spot to relieve himself. ANY place YOU chose may become the potty station. For example, older folks, or condo livers may decide to allow their dog to be house trained on the lanai or porch. People living in high rises, use elevators to leave the building, frequently find this option more realistic. The same process is involved, but using a potty pad or one of the relief areas that are artificial turf. The main object is the same Puppy remains in the kennel until the pup has relieved himself and then the pup may come out to play. Always keep in mind, a puppy needs to relieve himself frequently, and it is up to you to watch for the signs of circling, sniffing, running erratically with nose to the ground, as signs the pup needs to go to the potty station. We, as the “intelligent” ones, need to learn the signs the puppy is displaying, to let you know what is going to happen. In cases such as those, and the OWNER misses the signal, guess who is at fault, NOT the pup!

During the nighttime the puppy should be in the crate to avoid and messes. The same is throughout the day, if the puppy is not supervised, he belongs in his kennel,

This brings us to the second reason for kennel usage.

The safety of the pup or dog.

As with unattended children, our canine friends can get into places that are unsafe for our fuzzy charges. The ability to watch you pup every moment of the day is naive. Every corner can bring a new point of danger, electrical cords, stairs, small objects to swallow, and here in Florida the worse danger of all; swimming pools. Thus, when the puppy or dog is NOT SUPERVISED, the crate does it’s purpose. Kennels are NEVER used for punishment, this is your pet’s personal space, or den. Assuming potty training is achieved , more comfort items may be introduced to the kennel. Considering the stages of teething, pick toys that are appropriate.

Another “safety” purpose for the dog is to prevent him from chewing on other items which not only makes your arrival back home terribly unpleasant but very dangerous for the dog .

Dogs and puppies have lost their lives or have gone under major surgeries due to stuffing entangled in their stomachs and intestines. At the best, this makes a very unpleasant moment of entering a room. If the pup had been in the kennel as he should have been, this entire situation would be avoided, and a happy welcoming face would be the image, not destruction. A good reason to commit to crate training your dog or puppy!

TRAVELING

This is an area that seems to be neglected when there is a discussion; traveling with your dog. Since the dog has developed a comforting relationship with his crate, the stress is relieved to a monumental extent by bringing his “den or bedroom” with you. We, as humans, feel stress when traveling and tend to bring items of comfort. The dogs home, which can be folded and transported brings much comfort and helps to relieve that uneasy feeling being in a strange environment. This also creates a much more welcoming feeling from those you visit!

One more point I must make, living in hurricane zones, tornado or flooding areas, the concept of evacuation is a reality. Having your dog kennel or crate trained creates a situation of one less concern.

All of my dogs ( most pushing 100 pounds apiece) are crate trained. The phrase “kennel-up” relates to them as not a negative , but a positive and comforting command.

Carol Pentz

Breeder and Trainer of American Bulldogs
Over 30 years experience with domestic and exotic animals
www.heartandsolab.com

Let’s first discuss what “Risky” Dog Breed List  means. We can perceive this through the eyes of home and renters insurance carriers. Each company may have a unique list, but virtually every time they include Pitbulls( of any sort, or mixes!), Rottweilers, Doberman Pinchers, and German Shepherds. Others may include Chows, Great Danes, Presa Canarios, Alaskan Malmutes, Siberian Huskies, Wolf hybrids,and Akitas. The Pitbull classification has expanded to Bully breeds in general in many instances. The concept is to cut claims for dog bites. If you do not tell them about your dog they will deny your claim.

Hopefully Breed Specific Legislation(BSL), is known to most people. BSL is up for debate in almost all states and counties in the US. These breed bans can range from a fine for the owner, to death of the dog. These laws pertain often to just OWNING a dog of a breed, not just after a bite circumstance, but in general. Of course the issues that need to be clarified is NOT the biggest or most frequent biters, but the damage or “killing” bite of the dog. One can naturally see that a bigger dog, or one that man bred to hunt or work with kill ability, will be highlighted. Following is a list to visually present a more realistic dog bite record. The breed is followed by how many dogs were reported, percentage of biting a human stranger, then percent that bit the owner, next other dogs (for no particular reason), then dog rivalry. The last two columns are average of that breed are biters, then biting people.

This Risky Dog Breed List graph was found in Indigo Rescue…http://indigorescue.org/?page_id=83

One thing you will notice is that many on the Dog Breed List have a higher percentage of dog-dog aggression. For dogs, being territorial, this is not a great surprise. I would have to say the most important percentages are those that show aggression toward people; Humans/Stranger and Owners  .http://indigorescue.org/?page_id=83

It is obvious that looking at a chart of dog breeds, the dogs with more bite tendencies are Dachshunds, Chihuahuas, Beagles and Jack Russels.

People will argue, and with cause, the larger breeds have more power, thus a stronger and lethal bite. This year there has been a baby killed by a Pomeranian, another by a husky, and one with a Golden/Labrador retriever mix. What does that prove to the statisticians?

The point is that being prejudice whether it be man or dog is wrong. The “evil” pit bull was ,and still is(Staffordshire), nanny dogs. They are dependable, gentle, and protective. The first dog to win a medal in the US forces was a pitbull name Stubby. Through out our wars, best friends and working breeds, German Shepherds, Pitbulls, Doberman Pinchers, Rottweilers, and American Bulldogs, have been on duty to protect our freedom.

Apparently, the public’s appreciation for those we created to work, are no longer looked at with pride but with fear.

Keep in mind that when you get a dog that belongs to the ” dangerous dog” list, you may run into difficulties getting a house or apartment to allow the dog to remain. But also remember, for your own choices, keep in mind the dogs that bite people frequently, with no apparent reason.

Bringing a dog into your life is a commitment, not a game. There are many groups determined to remove the stigma placed on these proud breeds, by owners who through training of bad intentions, cruelty to these dogs, and owners who do not research breeds predisposition. This means every breed, large or small.Insurance companies, landlords, and even county and state laws determine what dog you may possess. It would be equal to refuse to insure or allow a person of a religion, color, or where they were raised to rent a home or apartment. So please consider all and review the “Risky” Dog Breed List

CANINE PLAY INTERACTION

Playing with our pets is fun and amusing, however this is only a portion of the purpose of dogs at play. It is an important function in a dog’s life, for bonding with you, and keeping the dog from a life of boredom. Let’s look at a pack of wolves, the pups and the adults romp and wrestle to learn the tactics of the family and the hierarchy of the pack.Domestic dogs need this interaction, but with the owners. It is important to realize how to play properly with your dog.
        Let’s begin with puppies, cute cuddly puppies. Some pups are ready to play immediately, some take a little coaxing. If the pup is shy, a helpful move is to get on the floor near the pup, lower your head to the floor. No eye contact, and hair accessible. Within a very short time the pup will be checking out to see who and what you are. Next move is to rub your forehead against the puppy’s forehead.. Pheromones for acceptance, love, and pleasure are in the forehead(most animals are) , now you have it made!  

      Size of the dog is the next consideration, along as breed tendencies. Small dogs are given little credit for the capability of play. Yes, a large house can be enough room to exercise a toy breed. However, real play time is immensely important. Segregation of dogs from other people and animal, creates a neurotic and fearful pets. Walking your dog, small or large helps to set up the hierarchy of the dog and the owner. Being in control of your dog  is  definitely  one of the most critical issues of raising any dog. Dogs need structure and an alfa set up, or you will lose the respect of your dog.
        Toys should be size that cannot be swallowed, or easily destroyed. NEVER use rags, clothing, shoes as toys. This leaves the notion that such objects can be played with or chewed on. This goes for all dogs, this would be setting yourself up for disaster. Toys should be hard enough to use for teething, yet soft enough to be tempting. A Wubba by the company KONG, is a terrific choice for small dogs. Safety is essential. Vinyl toys are bright and colorful, and usually have a loud squeaker; however, vinyl can be bitten off in chunks that might be ingested. A piece of vinyl could be swallowed and cause a blockage. This situation is not only painful, but life-threatening and will involve an expensive surgery. Latex toys are much more safety conscious. If it is swallowed, it is generally thin enough to pass it through the digestive tract. Toys must be viewed in three ways; fun, safety and purpose.
          Playtime with any puppy or dog should include those same three factors. Fun is of course, is the first consideration by most. but that is only partially the object of play. Play is a time for a dog to get exercise, the owner to get exercise, and relating on a mutual plane from dog to human. Consider the breed of dog and the purpose for which that breed was created. Let’s use the toy breeds as a first example. A great number of the smaller breeds are Terriers. Terriers were bred to be vermin hunters. This makes their prey drive higher than other breeds. This is a concept missed by most. Play should be directed in formation towards their natural behaviors.

The majority of the small breeds are natural hunters. These breeds are perfect for playing fetch or hide a toy and get the dog to find and retrieve it for you. They frequently shake a toy in instinctive imitation of killing prey. Keeping this in mind, play should use the natural responses, but the alpha being, the human should work on teaching the dog to release the toy on command. Using a dog’s inherent behavior is a proper form of training, not just amusement. It is very important to utilize the deeply rooted behaviors of each breed, but keeping the behavior at suitable limits by training the dog to listen to the owner, the pack leader.
      Border Collies are frequently noted as the most intelligent dog breed. They and other herding breeds have a unique ability to learn and think quickly. These breeds need activity and utilization of their logic, or they become bored and frustrated. Games with herders need to be active and thought provoking. Watching agility competitions, will establish the useful intensity of the breeds. Entertainment is different for the dog and master. Play is energetic; Frisbee , hide and seek, fetching, using hand signals or sounds are just some of the fun things to do that are productive and occupy the attributes of the herders. The owner needs to share the love of a challenge to make life fun and inspiring for both dog and human. The trick is to remain on the top rung of the intelligence ladder! Creative indoor play and actions can include multiple toy boxes, one for individual types of toys, such as rope, soft, or hard toys. Teach them things to do, fetching your slippers, umbrella, things to fill the need to be useful. They are also great children “sitters” The family is their herd and will protect and gather the children.
       Again, this is something that is researched before entering a dog into the home, the “purpose” and innate qualities of a breed. Working breeds should do just that. Take your Rotty for a walk while he pulls a cart, maybe including a child. Remember, You are always in charge and initiate play or time together. Structure is as important for a dog as it is for a child, they require knowing the status line in the family.
       As can be seen, recreational activity between dog and his master, is one not only of fun, but function of body and brain. A runner would work out well with a Dalmatian, which was a carriage dog in history.A Maltese being small and a non-shedding breed, require less outdoor running and can even be potty trained in a litter box. It does need to be recognized, that even small breeds need to get in the sun regularly for optimum health. Retirement  or apartment residents frequently choose the toy breeds.
Hunters automatically develop a report with the hunting breed they chose. Working in the rough terrain develops a close bond between dog and owner. Retrieving balls or toys, builds the basis for the hunting lifestyle. The majority of sporting dogs work hard, but settle in the home when the play or work is completed.

One point for playing with any dog, large or small, playing tug-of-war is not an acceptable form of play. It seems everyone falls into this “play”, but unless you are training for that behavior( protection, certain specialty breed shows), tugging only promotes tearing of clothes, aggressive behaviors, not releasing when told, and biting. When playing this way, generally we allow the puppy or dog to win the game. Wrong scenario is occurring here. The human has “lost” to the dog. The hierarchy has changed. The dog is now alpha and that is a position that is improper and may literally “bite you in the butt”.
       Play-time is bonding time, learning each other and have productive fun. Chose your dog wisely, and play appropriately for the breed. This life taken into a home, needs proper health, love, and play. Be certain research is done completely, and don’t take prejudice advice from people who may have had a uniquely bad experience with a poorly trained dog.

Carol Pentz
 HeartAndSol American Bulldogs
 www.heartandsolab.com

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED

All about breeding dogs, from step one

Constantly we hear that breeding dogs is almost a crime, actually some do believe it is criminal. Before you think of breeding your dogs, there are very real issue of ethics, health and logistics. Being a responsible dog owner is the duty of all dog owners. The question of WHY you want to breed your dogs, need to be studied. A purpose of getting some cute puppies, or it will be educational for the kids to be involved, are not valued as a good reason to breed. Are you willing to risk your dog to breeding complications, or health issues with the pups.What will you do with these puppies after they are born. Realize the amount of work and time involved with puppy rearing. Where will you keep mom and babies; do you have a list of homes for the pups. The world does not need unwanted puppies. Be serious, and

BE RESPONSIBLE!

Assuming you are deciding to breed for all the correct reasons, first understanding cycle and process is a necessity. A Female dog (bitch), should not be bred on her first cycle or heat. Her bone growth and physical development should be complete, before the stress of motherhood should be attempted. Be very cautious during that first heat to not let her be with a male as it is a strong urge to breed when the time is right.

The females heat cycle starts with swelling of the vulva. It is a noticeable increase in size. You may notice her licking herself, then you will notice blood spots. The bleeding may be light or it can be more profuse. There are little sanitary belts or panties to prevent stains in the house, but blankets or sheets on your furniture will work also. A dog’s heat is NOT the same as women’s menstruation. Humans are flushing out the uterus if there is no pregnancy, while a dog is preparing for pregnancy. At this point the female is not fertile, a mistake often made. Majorly the bleeding goes on for seven to ten days. It is usually on the tenth to fourteenth day after bleeding starts, that she is fertile( eggs are being released by her ovaries). At this point, she will be receptive to the male. Previously she is not too “sweet”, snapping at him if he tries to mount her. She will start “flagging” when she is ready for the male. Flagging is the moving of her tail to ease the breeding; nature is wonderful. The male will mount her from behind, wrapping his front legs around her; she should accept his advances now. After a bit of practice runs, he will penetrate her. This is not the end. When he has thrust deeply enough, her vaginal walls will clamp onto his penis, and they become “locked”. It is best they be supervised or one may hurt the other’s sexual organs while they are in this position.Starting with them facing the same direction, they most often twist around and head the opposite direction. I have heard of owners throwing water on them to try to separate them. It is safer and more beneficial to the mating to be with them until they disconnect naturally.This may take ten minutes to an hour. Keep other dogs away, and this may not be suitable for young children. Generally once they locked she should become pregnant, but having made the proper decision to breed, it would be wise to repeat the breeding every other day for two more times.

Gestation, or the length of time it takes from mating to birth, is around 60-64 days, Mark it on the calendar and count the days. The first 30 days may seem like nothing has happened. Some females change personality a little, wanting to be closer to female members in the house, resting a little more often, and urinating more often. The last half of the pregnancy, will be full of changes. Visually her body changes almost daily.Her food portions should be increased by 25% now, and 25% more each week. The food should be healthy, natural with probiotics. Her belly will become bigger, her teats will start filling with milk. Massage her milk glands to attempt to avoid mastitis. Mastitis is not only extremely painful for the bitch, but can infect her so badly she will need surgery or hospitalization. In either event you will be doing bottle feeding each pup, every two hours. Be sure to check her out daily after the birth(whelping).

During the pregnancy, a whelping box should be purchased or built. The box should be square or rectangular with enough space for the dog to lay out straight and and nurse comfortably, and big enough for the pups as they grow. They will need to nurse up to eight weeks or more, depending on the breed. This box should have sides high enough so as to keep the pups in as they start walking.Along each wall should be “pig rails”. the object is to protect the pups if mom should roll on them. These rails  must be at least 5 inches wide and up from the bottom by about five or six inches. If there are multiple dogs in the house, it might be wise to separate her into another room, or use a sturdy pen around the box. Precision Pets have a very nice Courtyard pen that fits the bill.

The big day has arrived! She will be looking for a “nest”. Put her into the whelping box on towels or blankets. Heavy brown wrapping paper to line the bottom, as there will be blood. She will try to get comfortable but will pace. Her breathing will be rapid and irregular. The contractions become obvious, as she get closer to time. Some dogs stand, some lay down, but it is an amazing thing to see how she will (normally) birth with little assistance.When she pushes out the pup ,the head will be out most often first. The pup will be in a sack of blood and fluid. She will push it out, turn and break the pup out of the placenta. Quickly she will clean the pup, bite the umbilical cord, and then lick the pup to initiate breathing and eat the placenta. She should be carefully watched during whelping not to step on a pup when she is having another. Check all pups for respiration, nasal passages clear, and not being laid upon.Puppies can not see nor hear for the first week to two. The ear canals are not even developed until then. Be certain each pup can find a nipple to start nursing.Change the bedding and clean the box. Keep the new “Nursery” clean at all times.Mom will stimulate the pups to pass waste by licking them until the pups evacuate the bowels and bladder. She “disposes” of the waste herself. Mom needs to eat well and often, be sure she stays strong, which will make the pups strong.

This picture shows a whelping box with pig rails, and pups at a few days old. The second picture shows them at 3 ½ weeks.

BE A RESPONSIBLE BREEDER, THESE ARE LIVES, NOT AMUSEMENT.

To breed or not to breed written by Carol Pentz
www.heartandsolab.com
239-776-2499

 Proper Feeding Of Dogs

Nutrition of dogs was approached in my last article; now the knowledge will be put to use. Knowing dogs need a protein, fats, carbohydrate, minerals, and enzymes to function and have a healthy life. DON’T ASSUME that all dog food companies are making healthy diets. Not only are the ingredients important, but the ratio of those ingredients AND from where they came, as well as other food or chemical additives.

Reading labels on dog foods(as well as human foods) can be tricky. The FDA does establish animal feeds for name and address of manufacturer, proper ingredient listing, net quantity, and proper identification of the product. This does not appear to cover any quality issues. Some states also  enforce a labeling agency, AAFCO, Association of American Feed Control Officials. They over-see and the food product name, guaranteed food analysis, adequacy, calorie statements and feeding directions. This still seems minimal for our beloved friends. AAFCO does go further than the FDA, but their object is to clarify the ingredients, content analysis, nutrition “adequacy statement”. None of these make a clear statement of the dog food quality. AAFCO requires only 8 dogs to run a study, and only 6 have to finish a 26 week test trial.

 After understanding that there are major regulations on dog food, it is up the the dog owners to fathom out the nutritional factors. As with human foods, the order listed on the ingredient panel is in order of weight in the food, before processing. For instance, if whole chicken is listed first, that was before the moisture was cooked out of the meat. Generally, that moisture may reach up to 80% of the chicken, making it a much less dense part of the ingredients. Appealing to the human consumer, whole meat sounds more appealing, but chicken meal has up to 300% more protein since it is weighed in a meal form, with little moisture to add as useless weight. If the “meal” is specified as “meat”, rather than WHAT type of meal, that should be avoided. As the meat is not designated, it could be any mixture, and as difficult as it is to say, some of these meat mixtures include animals that died for unknown reasons, and the worse is euthanized pets from shelters and clinics. This is not only a chilling concept, but these animals have drugs injected into them before death.

Corn is frequently a major component in dog food manufacturing.Corn not only is not easily digestible, but corn is one the most frequent vegetables genetically modified. GM food stuffs should be avoided for our pets and ourselves.

Rice, if whole grain, is a fine ingredient; if it is brewers rice or rice midlings, these products are basically the residual rice parts left over from brewing, or scraps left over from other purposes. Needless to say, the value is minimal at best.

Fats are an essential part of your dog’s diet, but again the fat should be designated, such as chicken, salmon, etc. Generic labeling of products should put up a caution flag.

Most of us are aware of the high allergen factor in gluten’s, whether it be corn, wheat, etc. They should be avoided.

Carbohydrates are a necessity, as we know. Potatoes, sweet potatoes, peas, carrots, kale, berries(especially blueberries, a great antioxidant, are a few of the better carbs.These also add to the fiber intake, keeping the dog happy and healthy.

Preservatives in the product should be natural( such as vitamin E). You will see, however a additive of BHA. BHA has been indicated in cancer development, so much so it is not allowed in human foodstuffs. Another health hazard often in dog food are dyes. First, do we really think the dogs need colorful foods? Of course not! Dyes are unsafe, especially red dye #40, and are being used to appeal to the human.

Here are a few words on packaging, we, the humans, go to the store to buy food, wet or dry, for our dogs. Marketing has dictated that dog food bags or cans must look like a meal WE would like to eat. Colorful products, pictures of happy dogs, all sell the product to unknowing humans. Names we know, in which we feel confident, lead us to the checkout register. Grocery stores carry Purina in all sorts,Alpo, Little Caesar, Beneful, Bil-jack, even Iams. None of these food get even three stars on the dog nutrition scale. Science Diet, Eukanuba, Natures Balance, Diamond, Life’s Abundance, and many more are considered upscale foods, yet reach only a three to three and a half stars.

The products must be spectacular, they look good enough for US to eat!!   Keep in mind the views of fast food burgers one TV commercials, have you ever seen a burger that looks that good in their establishment? And the health factor in these”meals” is close to zero. Good marketing does not equate to good nutrition.

One other form of dog feeding can be of great benefit if approached wisely.  Raw diets are gaining momentum in the dog world. There has been numerous dog food recalls, and dog food related illnesses and even deaths due to ingredients in some dog foods and treats. I do STRONGLY recommend no chicken treats. Almost all chicken treats come from China and have brought bacteria and foreign substances causing more deaths and illnesses than I care to mention. Raw diets consist of uncooked meats,vegetables, berries. Vitamins may also be added. This diet is natural for dogs, with no loss of vitamins during a cooking process. It must be created with all the proper nutritional values that were outlined in the previous article on nutrition. Preparation is time consuming, but the benefits ca outweigh the negatives. Keep in mind to buy fresh meats and and fruits and veggies. .The other information that needs to be mentioned regarding fresh chicken and bones, bones do not become brittle unless the are cooked. Raw chicken with bones are a good protein source and calcium, with the tooth cleaning benefit off the bone. Be cautious of genetically modified foods and all foods are quality. Meat bones should be given once a day, for the natural basic chew, the benefit of the minerals and marrow. Ground turkey burger, chicken burger, buffalo burger, venison, pork, lamb, make a great base for “raw balls”.  In the ground meats, add peas, sweet potato, vitamins, berries, carrots bits,kale(chopped) organ meats, green tripe, and salmon oil(wild caught, only). This mix can be formed into meat- balls in appropriate sizes according to your dog. For time utility, make a large batch and separate into plastic bags or containers in meal size portions, freezing them to thaw out daily.  Adding eggs or egg white protein powder is of great benefit also. This is a process that takes some regimentation and practice creating balanced meals, and working out the budget , but this could be the food style for your dog.

                There is so much to discuss on the subject of Proper Feeding Of Dogs keep in mind that wild animals fed on  natural and healthy diets,  are virtually free of cancer and have a strong immune system. Do the best for your dog, which starts at nutrition, “you are what you eat” .

 If you have suggestions or questions, please leave a comment.

CAROL PENTZ
HeartAndSol American Bulldogs
heartandsolab@comcast.net
www,heartandsolab.com

Canine Nutrition

We have been raised in the belief that dog food companies have the best interest of our canines in their best interest. As with our nutritional needs, corporations tend to make dog foods visually appealing to humans, not always with dog’s health coming secondary to profits. More on canine nutrition ….

Let’s delve into the factual information we all need to recognize beyond the fancy and appealing packaging. Many of the FDA regulations have minor, if any, affect on nutritional or safety for our unconditional best friends.

Of great importance, we must grasp the reality of the evolution of dogs. Derived from wolves, nature originally instilled some changes for ease of life for the future of dogs. At that point humans took over the designing of breeds to suit their needs. No matter how severe the newly created breeds became, the nutritional requirements remained the same.

Dogs are considered carnivores, however the entire animal of which the hunted, was consumed including the vegetation the prey has ingested. When discussing the nutritional needs of dogs, this must be kept in our minds.

Firstly, and of grave importance is the issue and primary requirements of protein and amino acids. Often the percentage of protein is displayed, but the necessity escapes the layman. In our early school years, we were taught “the building blocks” needed to live. Protein is composed of amino acids and dogs cannot create these on their own. These 10 essential amino acids are an extremely important to create proper growth, bodily functions, as well as giving the carbon chains to produce glucose for energy. Thus you can see the invaluable need for easily assimilated protein. In the wild, dogs innately know when certain amino acids are lacking and eat accordingly. Instincts run strong, but now our domesticated dogs depend solely on their owners to fill requirements for a healthy existence.

Dietary fats and essential fatty acids are important to give energy and cell structure and function. Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids are needed for proper skin, coat development, joint movement and development. Vision, learning ability and physiological effects are also created by essential fatty acids.  These cannot be synthesized by the body.  Without these dietary fats and essential fatty acids, there will be learning and brain dysfunction and the inability to absorb fat soluble vitamins.

(Illustration by Drs foster and smith)

Here, one can see a dog’s digestive tract, fairly simple but very effective. Dissimilar to a human system, there is little digestion initiated before the small intestines. The stomach starts the process with enzymes and liquefying the food. The small intestine is the area of absorption and breakdown of foodstuffs, reaping the benefits of proteins, amino acids and fats, plus vitamins and minerals. The small intestine is a mere one and a half times the length of the dog, a majorly difference to the digestive tract of humans. The small intestine widen into the large intestine which absorbs the fluids from the waste to hydrate the body. The large intestine is at best, eighteen inches long. As you can see, dogs need proper and assimilative nutrition. In the wild, dogs eat what their systems need; again the domestic dog is at the will of humans to provide a balanced diet. Knowing humans eat poorly, this ill behavior passes on to our pets.

When we discuss energy, these are the calories needed to produce that energy. The components of these calories consist of proteins, fats and carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are found in the digestive tracts of food animals, and the ingestion of fruits, berries, and grasses. These digestible “carbs” are broken down in the small intestine by enzymes. There are also fermentable carbs. Starches and fiber pass through the system with little nutrient assets, becoming fermented by microbes changing into short chained fatty acids and gas. As the canine has evolved throughout history, we need to consider the dog breed, activity level, age, and particular physical requirements. Puppies, pregnant or lactating females need the highest calorie AND protein level.

Vitamins and minerals are an area that are lacking in many diets. In the wild, the vitamins and minerals were balanced in the natural raw foods they ingested. Dog food, dry or wet has been cooked, diminishing the nutritional value of the food. Vitamins and minerals are depleted during cooking and processing. Another factor in relation to vitamin assimilation is the lack of sunshine and fresh air, with so many pets indoors for most of their lives. Vitamins A, D, E, K, and all of the B vitamins are essential for good health. There are at least one dozen minerals that would naturally be found in a dog’s natural diet which needs to be added to the making of their prepared foods. The quality and composition of any component in prepared foods must be questioned.

Loving our dogs, large, small, and in between; goes well beyond a pat on the head and a bag of food. We are their keepers and must be certain to give them the best nutrition. Remember, they give us an unconditional love, selflessly.

Carol Pentz
www.heartandsolab.com
Dog food evaluation will be coming soon. How does your dog food rate?

American Bulldogs

 When the word Bulldog is said, usually the vision of a short, stubby, flat faced, snorting dog. That breed was originally termed, English Bulldog, which later was shortened to Bulldog.

When researching the history of Bulldogs, it is much more likely to find pictures and photos of a thick dog, with a slightly shortened snout, and longer legs. Keeping in mind, the purpose of these dogs were bull baiters, and hunters of large animals, this of course, seems a more rational size and mobility.

Looking at these dogs may make one to wonder, what happened to these dogs after the English Bulldog overtook the favor of humans. In Europe, they essentially disappeared. However, in the United States, two men were bent on bringing back to popularity the original bulldog type. Thus, the American Bulldog began evolving. They two men, Johnson and Scott, were aiming for a dog of strength, versatility, and temperament. Johnson was breeding for a more muscular and thick dog to be more towards working. Scott, however, was looking for a large but more athletic dog for hunting, protection, endurance.

The brindle and white dog is a more standard or Scott line, which is Misha Double heart. The red and white is a classic or Johnson line. He is Sol keeper. His head is larger, not only because he is male, but that indicates the classic.

The differences are more visible in a standing position. Misha has a super nose, perfect for hunting, longer legs and longer snout, all advantageous for hunting and endurance. Sol, on the other hand, is more bulky, short back and shorter in height. His head is massive and is built for grabbing and holding, weight pulling and protection.

Mackenzie is a pup from the breeding of Sol and Misha. He is what is called a hybrid of the two lines. He is not filled out yet, but he is taller than Sol already, but he is thickening up. American Bulldogs take about two and a half years to fill out completely.

LunaHaze is a classic female. Very loving and gentle as is the breed in general. A beautiful girl, she is mistaken for a male, due to her denseness and large head. Luna is perfect specimen of a female classic.

Chocolate Isis Dream is extremely dense a well muscled. This female has a very short snout and can overheat if worked too hard. She is exquisite with her chocolate brindle coloration.

The American Bulldog was said to be America’s best kept secret in the dog world until the movie “Homeward Bound” hit the theaters. The story of two dogs and a cat trying to find their human family, initiated the new flow of attention for “chance” the American Bulldog. His amazing personality exhibited the wonderful traits indicative of the American Bulldog breed.

Innately protective of their family, sweet and gentle in nature, sensitive to feelings and your health, this is a breed that fills all aspects of your life (excluding a small size, if that is your wish).

An American Bulldog show is not like a show you see on TV. Conformation is only a part of the competition. Obedience is a major part of most events; walking off lead through distractions, weight pulling, protection events, and “Hang Time”. Hang time tests the length of time a dog can hang on a rope by sheer jaw strength. An amazing sight for anyone to see.

This is an event called hardest hitting. By the way, the thing the man has in his hand is rubber wrapped with tape; he hits his leg with it, not the dog. The dog is geared up by its owner, and then released to “attack” the man with the jute sleeve. The dog that hits him the hardest on the first “bite” gets the most points. His full protection suit can be seen in the photo’s foreground.  This dog in this picture was the sweetest and well mannered dog I have seen in a long time.

This is a breed that fulfills the needs of many. Perfect as a service or therapy dog, or protection dog; but American Bulldogs are always your best friend.

CAROL PENTZ
www.heartandsolab.com